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Category: Maintenance
Posted by: Derek
The reason for my window work is when the car was out of the garage it rained for several hours, and upon checking to make sure things were fine, water was found behind the driver and passenger seat. As the inner seal, roof seal, and sill seal have been replaced recently, something else had to be at fault. My toll booth seals were showing their age, and at some points peeling from the car. Assumption was that the door was filling with water (fast from the hard rain) and leaking through the vapor barrier into the car. So, some pictures below are of the replacement procedure. It was easy to do, just pop off the upper door panel, push in the tabs to remove the weatherstripping, clean the area, insert new stripping and line with weatherstripping glue. Also, its a good idea to clean the silicone between the seals and replace it nice and flat (better than from the factory)!







However, as it turns out, my leaks were not from the above seals (although I am glad I replaced them anyway, as I am sure the old seals didn't help). When the new ones were installed and a hose test was done, it appears the 'fixed' window seal was leaking on the back edge, that water was running down the inside part of the inside stainless panel of the door and right to the bottom ledge of the car, spilling out onto the carpet. I used a small screwdriver and fine tipped silicone tube and filled in the area. After letting it sit the test was done again and no leaks.
Category: Mechanical
Posted by: Derek
Had some problems lately with the outer toll booth window seals leaking. As I am in the process of redoing them, I found a bolt to my drivers window track extremely loose. I tightened it up and put the window up, sure enough it hopped off the track. Did some reading on the DML and didn't turn up much except one mention of the bracket sliding. Decided to pull the window to investigate further.

Pulling the window isn't that difficult, you need to remove the upper door panel and the black bracket that pushes against the window and has the felt strip. This allows the window when pushed up to slide inside the car rather than into its channel. Put the window halfway down, unbolt the window motor piece from the window (its the tubular center area with two nuts holding it in). Wiggle the bracket out, and now the window is free. Pull it up and keep working the window until you get it out.

Now the window is attached to the metal bracket which has the sliders on it that fit into the track by a slightly adhesive rubber substance. I believe that its purpose is meant more as a pressurized attachment than it is an adhesive attachment. I looked and sure enough, there are dimples in the glass that alert you to where the track should be, and mine was about 1/4" to 3/8" pushed back. This means that when the window is going up, the front hits the channel first and then the motor has to push harder to get the window to 'slide' backwards into place. This force pops the front of the window off the track. My previous owner must have had this happen and as a fix loosened the track so it flexed backwards also.

Here are some pics of the window out, as well as a closeup where you can see the round dimple in the window. There is one at the front and the back when the metal bracket is lined up properly.