You are currently viewing archive for October 2006
Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
After reading an interesting post on the DeLorean Mailing List about a cross reference blower motor, I decided to pick one up.

The part # for this is Siemens PM106, and it is a drop in replacement for our blower motors. AutoZone carries these sparsely, if they have it in stock its $18.99, if they special order it $24.99.

Took the old motor out and saw that there was some rats nest gunk in the exhaust line. Cleaned that out and transferred it and the basket to the new motor. Replaced it and cranked it up, much quieter than the old motor. Would highly recommend this cheap replacement if yours is making loud noises.

Category: General
Posted by: Derek
Here are some pictures from the Winter Park Concours d'Elegance 2006 show and tour:

Category: Exterior
Posted by: Derek
I spent another few hours playing with the passenger door to get it aligned right. Due to a good size dent I feel something was dropped on the car by the previous owner that knocked the door out of alignment. With the torsion bar out it is easy to loosen the door hinge bolts and reposition the door.

At first nothing I did with the hinges loosened and the striker pins out got the door to sit right. The bottom would always extend beyond the car, sticking 5mm or so out from the body, when the top was aligned correctly. Then it hit me that I probably needed the striker pins in to help 'suck' the door in when closed. Bingo.

So with the hinges loose and the striker pins out, position the door to where it looks perfect above the moulding line on the door. Take a pencil (t-panel needs to be off also) and trace around the hinge on the rear of the car. This will allow you to open the door and tighten down the bolts, as when you pick the door up it will shift. Once the back is tight and still looks right, your going to need to tighten down the front. This is more challenging because you can't get a pencil in there unless you pull the windshield trim. So just tighten and loosen, adjusting very small amounts, until it fits right.

Next, put the striker pins back in. Keep adjusting until the door closes without hitting or rubbing them, and it sits flush. Please note that with the torsion bar out, the front half of your door will sit below the windshield trim line and front fender line. Once the force of the torsion bar is applied when it is reinserted, it will pick the front up. This will also require you to readjust the striker pin.
Category: Exterior
Posted by: Derek
So I had a chance with the louvers off and roof apart to do something I have wanted to for quite some time now. My louvers were nice and baked, a faded gray. I had cleaned part of them up by using a polishing compound to cut through the upper layer of paint. They still did not look the best in sunlight though, and the grills on the lower level were still faded.

Just put them up against a wall, sanded them with 400 grit paper, clean them down with rubbing alcohol, and spray several light coats of SEM Trim Black on them. After letting them dry overnight I washed them down with water to remove anything left from the paint. Here is a picture of halfway through the job:

Category: Maintenance
Posted by: Derek
Per the advice from DMCH I dremeled off the old bracket on the torsion bar. Came off fairly easy with no damage to the bars threads. It looked salvageable. Ordered a new bracket and took Marks advice (read all info in this thread) and tapped it on and off for about an hour. Have most of the head of the bar re-molded to fit in the bracket. I can get it on and off by and with just a little pressure and wiggling. I am assuming it should be tight as it needs to hold the bar in one position and have no movement.

After further investigation of the roof, it appears my roof has seperated from the fiberglass body. Brian P sent me over a writeup available here on how to fix this. I proceeded to do this fix, my roof was probably up about 3/8" or a bit more. Pounding it down brought it down to about 1/8", and bolting it down sucked it in the rest.

A few changes I would make to BrianP's instructions...

Go with a 3" bolt rather than a 4", you wind up with a lot of extra bolt regardless. 2" may be a bit too short. Rather than a cairrage bolt I went with a machine screw, rounded head (like a cairrage bolt) but a flat head screwdriver slot so it is easier to hold down and tighten.

I am not sure how much (if any) water gets in that area, but I did put RTV sealant under the washer and screw, and wiped off the excess that squirted out when it sucked the roof down. Hopefully that will keep anything from leaking. I'll probably paint (like Brian) to prevent corrosion and then cover with duct tape just to make sure it doesn't have a chance to scrape anything.

Here are some pictures:

The above picture is after it was hammered down. This brought the roof down quite a bit.

These pictures are from misc angles after I drilled the holes and placed the bolts in (prior to tightening).

And finally after it was tightened. Really sucked it right down back to where it should be. This should fix any noises that would occur when the doors open. No more squeaky roof, rubbing t-panel, or torsion bar rubbing the door hinge.