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Dec 30, 2005: New stereo on its way

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Today I went ahead and ordered one of the stereo's I was eyeing for the DeLorean. I was considering several Sony stereos with the active black face, so it would fit in with the cars looks once installed. I did not want anything like todays usual stereos with lots of flashy colors and buttons to them, as I want it to look natural with the car at a show. Sony seems to be the only company making the active black stereo's any more, and they have had several models in the past year. For the older models, you can get them refurbished for about $180-$220 (as they sell for upwards of $350 new. However, Crutchfield had a sale this week on the CDX-M8815X for $200 new, so I just had to go for it. With a coupon it came to $180 new, with free shipping.

I have decided to not purchase the DMC Houston bracket and instead hack up my own. I decided on this for two reasons. One, I am not going to be going back to stock, and plan on selling my original radio. I am all for keeping the car look 'stock' while still updating the car as indiscretely as possible. Two, the new one is not painted, and I have a feeling any job I do would not come out looking like the original.

See pictures of the unit I plan to install below:

Category: General
Posted by: Derek
For Christmas I was given a replacement tail light board (for the one that I had not replaced yet) as the brake lights were not working on the drivers side. I was also given a oil pressure light switch to fix the oil leak I have from the engine. Unfortunately, the electrical connector tab on the oil pressure light switch (ordered from DMCH) was shipped out broken, so it is on its way back for a replacement. The plan is to reinstall the tail light after replacing the license plate bulbs with LEDs this weekend so the car is driveable. Would love to take it for a spin when the weather is warm. Also need to secure down the binnacle before the car goes out.
Category: Maintenance
Posted by: Derek
The binnacle job is finished. I removed the instrument cluster and took off the clear plastic. Cleaned the plastic as well as the dirt that was inside the cluster. Used some glue for car interior trim and resealed the black ring around the binnacle. Replaced all the bulbs I could with LEDs. Reinstallation was a bit aggrivating as some of the bulbs did not work and needed to be switched. The space to do this is very tight without constantly disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical connections in the back. At first the fuel gauge was off and did not read, but that was fixed due to a poor connection. Altogether it is back in the car but not secured down nor are the kneepads reassembled. I plan on doing this on the weekend as it is supposed to be warm enough to take the car out for a drive.
Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
The binnacle has been removed! Successfully might I add!

The job was a bit challenging, six small 7mm nuts and washers hold the binnacle in to the dash. I read that it was best to take out the kneepads, but that actually ended up being more pain than it was worth. If you have a thin socket and extension you can get it out without an issue. I ended up stripping one of the bolts in the left kneepad I need to fix, not a big deal though.

I have ordered the LEDs from and decided to go with the below list after reading several sources suggestions:

5 WLED 6-LED White Bulbs - Lights gauges
5 WLED-R 1-LED Wide Red Bulbs - Seat Belt, Door Open, Oil, LAMBDA, Brake
3 WLED-G 1-LED Wide Green Bulbs - Turn Signals, Low Beams
1 WLED-B 1-LED Wide Blue Bulbs - High Beams
1 WLED-A 1-LED Wide Amber Bulb - Low Fuel

You must keep a standard incandescent bulb in the battery light as it causes resistance in the circuit to charge the battery.

I also ordered 2 3610 4-LED bulbs for the license plate as I think I am interested in getting the whitish blue look on the plate. I think that would look nice at night on the back of the car. Below is a picture of my car in storage with the binnacle removed.

Dec 07, 2005: Oil Leak - Found

Category: Mechanical
Posted by: Derek
After cleaning up the oil pan constantly and tightening the bolts thinking it was the seal leaking, I found out about another 'DeLorean thing' last week. A common place for oil to leak is from a faulty seal on the oil pressure light sensor. This is part # 102462 & 102461 in the manual. It is located on the left hand side of the engine above the oil pan and causes the leak on the drivers side to appear as it is coming from the pan seal. The parts to fix it cost less than $20 and I have them on order from DMC Houston. This will be a nice and messy job to do while it is cold out, changing the oil and fixing the leak. At least with it sitting for the winter I will be able to see if the leak comes back (after running it in the garage a bit of course to build up the pressure).