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Sep 27, 2005: Small fix

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
I replaced the battery bolts that hold the positive and negative wires to the car battery. The bolts that had came with the battery the previous owner purchased were pretty stripped, and the positive wire would pop out if jarred enough. I did not want this to happen when driving, or the DeLorean would just stall on me which would not be good! All fixed after a $3 box of bolts from AutoZone.
Category: Mechanical
Posted by: Derek
So, today I decided to diagnose a slight squeal I have been hearing when driving 40+. I couldn't really tell where it was coming from, but noticed whe I went down a sidestreet slower than 40, I could hear it echoing off other cars, so it must be present always just at higher speeds its louder. Before when my front caliper seized the grinding noise was only audible when going slow, so I was hoping it wasn't another one seized.

Jacked up the rear of the car and spun the tires. Drivers side one had a scraping sound. Pulled the tire off to see that the parking brake fork had snapped on the inside pad, and the pad had completely worn down at a angle such that:

|arm| |pad| |rotor| |pad\ \arm\

Placed a new order from Gradys for a new arm and several other brakets, bolts, & covers I have needed, and ordered a new set of pads. The pads will need to be replaced along with a new fork to hold the arms strait.

The other parts I ordered are to fix a few small things, such as new circuit breakers with the easy to use click on/off tabs. New screws and screw covers for the rear plastic piece that covers the torsion bar brackets, and a new bracket that goes in the passenger footwell to hold the center console in.
Category: Exterior
Posted by: Derek
Had some time today to work on blending the stainless in areas that had stains or marks. It worked pretty good, but is very time consuming. I worked hard on the hood as it had several sections with spot marks that were detracting. As other owners have said, blending the hood causes the X brace pattern to begin to show through. You can see mine slightly, but it is much better looking clean than stained.

Also blended out some damage from the previous owner. Pictures will be posted soon.
Category: General
Posted by: Derek
I have placed an order for the following parts the other day that should be in tomorrow:

- Pivot bolt replacement
- Tie rod end replacements
- Blending pad & stainless steel cleaner
- Distributor cap & rotor
- W pipe seals

This should knock off the remaining engine tuneup that needs to be done with the spark plug wires and distributor hopefully finally getting installed. Along with that, the tie rods need to be replaced ASAP, and I would like to do the pivot bolt to guard against the old one snapping. Plus, the blending pad and cleaner will hopefully finally remove some stains and imperfections from the car.

Sep 14, 2005: Tachometer (maybe) fixed

Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
I was instructed to try cleaning the tachometer ground wire to stop it from freaking out on me, so that is what I did. It involved removing the rear parcel shelf wall, which was very easy after removing the four screws that hold it in, located below the net hooks. The wall pulled forward, and the ground was behind the passenger seat above the relay compartment. The ground wire that was there needed a cleaning, as the metal had that fuzzy white look to it. I took sandpaper and cleaned the contact as well as the nut holding it on the grounding bolt. After everything was replaced I took the car for a drive and had no tachometer problems. Hopefully the issue will not return!
Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
I just seem to be breaking things the last 24 hours...first my fiancees hard drive died when I was using the computer, then the D had issues leaving for work, now I am at work and my monitor just started to crap out on me...

So, I get in the car to head to work today, make it half way down the block and decide that the window open is not going to be cool enough heading to work, so I close it up and turn on the AC to MAX. Right away the tach goes from aroudn 2k (in 3rd) to 7k. Now I immediately saw it and slammed on the clutch and put it in neutral. As I had the radio on and the AC blowing, I didn't hear the engine rev that much, but I wasn't certain. So, turned off the AC (assuming that was the issue, starting to troubleshoot) and get going again in first, without problem. I make it around the corner and down the street with no problem, so I put the AC back on and right away the tach starts jumping wildly again. This time the radio is off and the engine sounds completely normal, yet the tach is at 5.5k, 7k, 4k, all over the place. I slow a bit and it lowers by 2k. So, I turn around, head home, and park it.

Heading home I was in 3rd and the tach showed 4k, yet the engine sounded fine. I thought it might be a belt as it seemed to happen when I kicked on the AC, but I heard no belt squeeling, but still checked the belts upon getting home and they were both there. Didnt have time to mess with the car as I was then running late so I left for work.

Per the DeLorean Mailing List it is probably a ground that needs to be cleaned behind the rear parcel shelf. Will have to check this out tomorrow morning.
Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Today was the day from hell. I have (finally, successfully) completed the worst job to date on the DeLorean. No, it did not have anything to do with the engine, suspension, braking system, clutch, transmission, or even the trailing arm bolts (which were actually pretty easy), it had to do with changing out the dash speakers. Honestly the longest, most drawn out, ridiculous job I have ever been faced with. If I would have known it was going to take 4 hours, I would have let the shop do it. They probably would have billed me up the ass, but that would have been much easier and less stressful.

The story began when I got up today determined to accomplish SOMETHING, ANYTHING with the car. Turned out the spark plug wires were still going to wait for another weekend, and the only thing I could seem to accomplish was replacing the DMC sticker on the air intake box. I tried putting the new DMCH stickers on the engine compartment lid, but for the life of me the 25 year old stickers had no stick left in them. This really pisses me off as the set was something along the lines of $35 and I am sure none of the rest of the stickers will adhere either, with the exception of the first one I applied. Yay.

So I wanted to change out the circuit breakers, but the ones I bought from Hervey had the posts and I did not want to mess with all the crimping and splicing. Drove around aimlessly looking for the proper replacement to no avail. Decided, hey, I need some new speakers anyway why not start with those today.

Previously I only had the front passenger speaker working, and the rear passenger whenever it wanted to (although the volume was very weak). I plan on installing a new stereo, speaker wire, etc over the winter, but for now have very little to listen with while driving. The dash speakers seem the hardest to match up, so I figured I'd buy them local (and get reamed $$$ in the process by not buying online) since I would be able to test out the fit. Found some nice Alpine, SPS-0829 40W Max, 10W RMS, 2-way 3 1/2" speakers that have a nice rim to stop the tweeter from ripping through the dash vinyl. Perfect.

However, they designed the car with no hope of ever replacing the stock speakers. There is so little room to fit in under the footwell, not to mention that you can only get one arm up in the crevice to reach the old speaker. A nice swivel socket wrench helped remove the old speaker, but putting the new one in is 100x more difficult. I needed to push it up under the dash with one hand, and sort of twist it to wedge it in place to get the other hand up there with the end of the swivel socket to tighten it up. The problem is the loose nut in the socket sucks right to the magnet of the speaker. After toying with gum, tape, and other substances to hold the nut in the speakers were finally in place 3 hours later. A long job for such an easy task if I had more room and could defy the power of magnets.

But, I failed to mention that I tested the speakers before installing and the driver side still did not work. Deducted it had to be a wire problem so checked the wires. Removed center console to get behind it, and everything was A-OK. Decided rather than screw around, I just crimped the driver side front into the output for the passenger rear as I know it works, and voila, two working speakers.

Sound is decent right now, better than the old speakers. It is still being put out by a 25 year old deck, so I am sure it will change very much in a few months. See, I eventually did accomplish something today.

Sep 03, 2005: Updated to-do list

Category: General
Posted by: Derek
1. Replace the front caliper

2. Replace the belts and bearings

3 a. Engine tune-up kit - spark plugs

3 b. Engine tune-up kit - distributor and wires

4. Pivot bolt replacement - seems like this breaking could be a bad thing, and its only $10 to fix. Do not want to be driving and lose the ability to shift.

5. Tie rod replacement - The rubber padding thing on mine have completely cracked and decayed. Need to order some new ones and get them on.

6. Clean the stainless - need to order a blending pad and some cleaner.

7. Fix interior dome light

8. LEDs in the car

9. Repaint the louvers - they are looking faded, need to take off and repaint.

10. Louver reinforcement - I have found a small crack in the louver support, so would like to get Rob Gradys reinforcement kit.

Sep 03, 2005: A/C panel realignment

Category: Interior
Posted by: Derek
Ever since I have picked up the car, the sticker on the A/C panel was crooked. I had tried previously to heat it up and shift it to no avail. Today I ran it under hot water and then peeled it back and reseated it. Looks good now!
Category: Electrical
Posted by: Derek
Managed to get the LEDs in today and installation wasn't a problem. Also fixed the dome light issue of the front not working right with the door open. Looked like the previous owner had switched one of the positive and a negative wire when replacing the headliners. The fragile plastic of the front dome light clips snapped, but I taped them and rigged them together. Working well now!
Category: Mechanical
Posted by: Derek
Replaced the spark plugs today, but had planned to do the wires also. The wires purchased seem to have a much bigger metal clip on them, and do not want to sit right on the distributor cap. Also, the wires are hard to access. Will probably wait until I get a new distributor cap to go digging around back there.

Also changed out the belts and bearings. Not a hard job but time consuming none the less.

When I started the car back up I heard a whinning noise that I found out was coming from my frequency valve. This should happen when the mixture and engine is set right, and wasn't before. Not quite sure how the plugs helped fix this, guess they are just running cleaner.